Almaty, una posible mañana cualquiera de febrero de 2012. En un bar de esta ciudad del sureste de Kazajistán, un hombre mira curioso las noticias en un televisor que cuelga de una de las paredes del establecimiento mientra toma un poco de shubat, una bebida típica en el país asiático hecha de leche de camello. Intrigado, pregunta educadamente al camarero quién es el personaje del que no paran de hablar en el informativo. La respuesta que obtiene, satisface a medias sus anhelos. “Un escocés que ha fichado el Kairat” contesta el camarero. Incrédulo, el hombre se levanta, deja unos tenges -moneda kazaja- en la mesa y se va a trabajar al taller de coches como cada mañana.
El Football Club Kairat (donde actualmente juega el hermano de Oriol Riera, Sito), apodado ‘El equipo de la gente’, es el principal club de fútbol de la ciudad de Almaty, la más grande en extensión de Kazajistán. Fundado en 1954 bajo la denominación de Dinamo Alma-Ata (más tarde Urozhal y, en 1955, Kairat), fue durante los años de dominio soviético uno de los principales clubs del país. De hecho, fue el único equipo kazajo en tomar parte en la liga soviética, y también el único en ganar la Primera Liga Soviética (1976 y 1983), la segunda división más alta en el fútbol soviético.
En sus vitrinas sólo aparecen dos ligas nacionales kazajas (1992 y 2004). Pero esta no es una historia de títulos, sino del fugaz paso de un escocés por esas tierras. Al otro lado del relato, en Malta, un escuálido centrocampista rubio de casi 30 años, que se encontraba disputando su primera temporada lejos de su tierra, Escocia, decide que es el momento de probar una nueva aventura tras haber disputado seis encuentros en el Qormi. Formado en las categorías inferiores del Dundee United, su carrera le había llevado a jugar en Aberdeen, Inverness y Ayr United, los tres clubs en los que jugó en su país natal antes de dar el salto a lo desconocido.

Duff disputó dos temporadas en el Kairat kazajo. (Foto: Fieldoo Stuart Duff)
QUERIDO DESCONOCIDO
“¿Qué habrá venido a hacer un escocés aquí?”, se pregunta el cliente del bar, que no logra descifrar qué interés le puede encontrar un veterano treintañero, con poco pelo en la cabeza, y absolutamente desconocido para el gran público, a la liga kazaja. Stuart Duff se convirtió entonces en el primer jugador escocés en jugar en la Premier League de Kazajistán. Era, de hecho, el primer británico en hacerlo. “Seguro que es un invento que nos deja Gregory”, murmura a regañadientes mientras se viste con su habitual mono de trabajo azul desgastado. John Gregory era el técnico inglés -llegó a dirigir a Aston Villa y a Queens Park Rangers- que entrenaba al Kairat hasta el mes anterior a la llegada de Duff, que no llegó a coincidir con él.
Duff no fue el primer ni el único escocés en hacer las maletas rumbo a un destino exótico, pues en esos meses algunos compatriotas suyos como el meta Graeme Smith, que firmó por el Gabala de Azerbaiyán, Derek Riordan, que marchó sin éxito a China, o Alan Gow, que probó suerte en India, también hicieron lo propio. “El primer escocés en probar en Kazajistán”, tituló el 9 de febrero de ese año el Scottish Express, que se limitó a hacer constar la noticia sin más profundidad. Dada su escasa popularidad, en Escocia su traspaso apenas provocó ruido mediático, sólo hablaron de ello algunos curiosos que se preguntaban el porqué de su marcha a un país más conocido por el secretismo de algunas deportaciones que por su fútbol.
“Dicen que tiene buena técnica y visión de juego”, le comentan al hombre que salió del bar unos compañeros de trabajo. Sin ser ningún prodigio técnico, no andaban desencaminados aquellos hombres, que a lo largo de todo el dia buscaron sin éxito en Youtube jugadas de aquel zurdo espigado que tanto podía hincharse a recuperar balones cual pivote defensivo, como desplazar el cuero en largo y con gran precisión con ambas piernas o hacer una ruleta más propia de un malabarista del balón. Pero ellos aún no sabían quién era ni cómo demonios jugaba aquel tipo. Duff había llegado a ser internacional sub-21 con Escocia, pero su trayectoria con el conjunto nacional no fue más allá. Tras más de una década por la primera división escocesa, y después de un breve periplo sin demasiado brillo por Malta, Duff aterrizó en el frío Kazajistán tras un ofrecimiento de su representante.
TIERRA DE MARAVILLA
Superados los protocolarios problemas con la tramitación del visado, y algún que otro soborno a algún oficial a su llegada al aeropuerto, Duff llegó a un país que se describe en grandes carteles como Land of Wonder (Tierra de Maravilla). Curiosa bienvenida, pensaría el centrocampista, de un país cuyas tres cuartas partes de superficie la conforman desierto o estepa. “Siempre busqué viajar al extranjero”, rememora. En Malta apenas permaneció cuatro meses, pero en Kazajistán espera tener una experiencia algo más larga. Firmó por dos temporadas.
“Era un afortunado con el equipo técnico y todos los servicios del club”, subrayó Duff años más tarde, cuando ya estaba de vuelta por tierras escocesas. En su primer curso en el Kairat le hospedaron en un hotel, mientras que en el segundo le facilitaron “un cómodo apartamento en el centro de la ciudad”. Su sueldo consistía, en buena parte, en primas por rendimiento. Pero no era el tema económico el que había movido su marcha a Kazajistán, sino el anhelo de descubrir una tierra poco explorada por compatriotas suyos. “Quise probar con el ruso y a veces un poco con el kazajo”, comenta sobre las lenguas a las que tuvo que adaptarse, aunque sin ánimo de impresionar. “Teníamos un traductor con el que hice buenas migas. Me sorprendí al final del primer año sobre cuánto había aprendido”, celebró.
“Me asombró mucho el nivel de la liga en Kazajistán”, explica Duff, que festejó haber fichado por uno de los equipos de la zona media alta y no de la baja. “Varios clubs en Kazajistán se sentirían a gusto en un nivel superior como el del fútbol escocés. El Astana, el Aktobe o el Kairat son capaces incluso de competir con el Celtic por la primera posición”, defiende. (En agosto de 2013, el Celtic de Glasgow sufrió para eliminar al Shakhter Karagandy en la última ronda previa de la Champions League, en la que el equipo kazajo ganó a los escoceses en la ida por 2-0, pero cayó en Celtic Park por 3-0).

El amarillo le acompañó en su estancia en Kazajistán, fue su color talismán. (Foto: Fieldoo Stuart Duff)
PROTAGONISTA SECUNDARIO
Duff no aparece entre los máximos asistentes ni entre los máximos goleadores del campeonato kazajo. Nunca ha sido esa su labor sobre el césped. En su primer año con el Kairat, el equipo quedó décimo en una liga de catorce. Duff participó en 24 encuentros, en todos menos uno como titular. Dos meses después de su llegada, un 8 de abril, logró el primero y último tanto con la zamarra amarilla en el triunfo a domicilio de los suyos ante el impronunciable Zhetysu-Sunkar. 3.000 kazajos observaron ese hito, el primer tanto de un británico en su liga. “Quizás no sea tan malo”, matizó el hombre que le vio en las noticias en aquel bar de Almaty.

Su figura apareció en los carteles publicitarios del club. (Foto: Fieldoo Stuart Duff)
La presencia y peso de Duff en el equipo creció con el paso de los meses, hasta convertirse en un puntal del Kairat, que en su segunda temporada remontó varios puestos y terminó quinto en la liga regular y tercero en la segunda fase, en la que el campeonato se divide en dos grupos (los seis mejores y los seis últimos), y disputan en paralelo dos torneos para determinar el ganador y qué equipos descienden. En el grupo que lucha por el campeonato -juegan todos entre sí dos veces y los puntos se suman a los acumulados en la fase regular- el de los seis primeros, el Kairat Almaty quedó tercero, por detrás del ganador Aktobe y del segundo, Astana, pero por delante del vigente campeón, el Shakhter Karagandy. Todo un logro para el Kairat, que se clasificó para la primera fase de clasificación de la Europa League. Por desgracia para Duff, sin embargo, aquello ya no lo pudo ver con sus propios ojos por culpa de un impedimento de la liga kazaja, que obliga a los extranjeros mayores de 30 a ser internacionales para continuar en su campeonato.
“Echo de menos esa vida libre”, recordaba hace poco. “Podía andar por las calles con total libertad. Pasaba como un ruso más, por lo que nunca llamé excesivamente la atención”, comentó de su estancia en Kazajistán, donde hizo buenos amigos. “Disfruté de las salidas nocturnas, más tranquilas y pausadas en comparación con las que se asocian con la cultura de la bebida británica”. Actualmente se encuentra sin equipo, tras firmar un contrato de pocos meses con el Cove Rangers, club de la Highland Football League, la primera de las ligas semi-profesionales escocesas -la quinta categoría escocesa-. Pese a haber recibido el interés de algún otro club extranjero, no parece que su carrera vaya a tener mucho más recorrido. Su periplo en el Kairat superó sus expectativas, pues llegó para probar una aventura deportiva, y volvió a casa con una experiencia personal que una norma le impidió prolongar.
El Kairat logró meses después superar la primera ronda previa eliminando al Kukësi albano, pero no pudo superar en la segunda al Esbjerg danés. “Te digo yo que con Duff les eliminamos”, comenta el hombre del principio del relato, una mañana más en el bar de siempre, antes de empezar su rutinaria jornada laboral en el taller mecánico. Resignado, entiende que ese peculiar escocés no sólo vino a hacer turismo o a ganar dinero, y acepta, nostálgico, que le terminó queriendo como a cualquier otro. “Camarero, póngame una copa, aunque esta vez de Johnnie Walker”.
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marzo 4, 2018
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marzo 12, 2018
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marzo 14, 2018
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abril 9, 2018
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abril 9, 2018
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abril 9, 2018
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abril 13, 2018
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abril 15, 2018
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abril 15, 2018
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abril 16, 2018
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abril 17, 2018
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abril 19, 2018
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